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But if you’re looking to taste an actual heritage pork chop (with wilted hickory), or organic country-raised chicken (from Goffle Road Farm out in New Jersey), or a variety of different seasonal vegetable preparations, done in the kind of modish, palatable haute barnyard styles that have been all the rage downtown for years but haven’t quite reached this more settled part of town (yes, there was a celery-root pot pie on the menu the last time we checked), this is the place to find it

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That might sound basic, but essentially it is that simple